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But when grown for cutting they should be grown
in a bed apart from the garden proper, and planted in rows to facilitate the
essential staking and tying; thus, the unprepossessing aspect of the plant
after flowering is not seen. Even indoors, the cut flowers require judicious
placing and arranging; they need a very large vase and are best suited for use
in large rooms, standing alone on a table, so that they can be seen from all
sides. Exceptions to this are the smaller species, and the dwarfer G. colvillii,
butterfly, and miniature hybrids, all of which are real gems in the garden. In
a garden where there is an area of rough grass, the wild European species
gladioli will give beautiful effects when planted in the grass—of particular
interest for this are Gladiolus segetum and Gladiolus communis. Other European
species such as G. palustris and G. byzantinus are also ideal for naturalizing,
and under such conditions their often hard, rigid, vertical lines are
minimized. They are hardy in localities where the ground does not freeze solid
to the depth of the bulbs for periods of
weeks. In colder zones, they should be lifted in the autumn.
The genus is a fairly large one and comprises about species,
with a wide distribution that includes Central Europe, the Mediterranean
region, Central Africa, and South Africa—the area around the Cape of Good Hope,
in particular, has about one hundred species, but not all of these are hardy.
In gardens, however, the majority of gladioli cultivated at the present time are
of hybrid origin.
The name gladiolus was originally coined by Pliny the Elder.
It derives from the Latin word gladius (sword), because of the swordlike shape
of the leaves. The genus was named by Tournefort, and gladioli were introduced
into European gardens at an early stage, although the first to be cultivated
for decorative purposes were the wild species, which remained the only garden
gladioli until about three hundred years ago. In 1629 Gladiolus byzantinus was
introduced into Europe from Turkey, while about the middle of the eighteenth
century the first South African species were introduced. Hybridization started
in France about 1841, when Bedinghaus, gardener to the Duc d'Aremberg, is
believed to have crossed Gladiolus psittacinus with Gladiolus cardinalis,
producing Gladiolus x gandavensis .
Gladiolus x colvillii was raised in 1823 by Colville at Chelsea in England, by
crossing Gladiolus tristis with Gladiolus cardinalis. Gladiolus x gandavensis
was further crossed by Lemoine of Nancy in France, who produced Gladiolus x
lemoinei in 1880. The one species that has played a major part in the evolution
of the modern gladioli is Gladiolus prirnulinus. Introduced in 1887, it
enriched the colour range to include shades of yellow, orange, salmon, and
apricot.
Then, at the turn of the century, the normal shape of the
flowers was varied by Pfitzer, who created varieties with fringed and ruffred
petals. This transformation was further developed in the United States,
eventually producing such popular varieties as Ruffled Champion, Sweet
Seventeen, and Picardy. About 1900, Gladiolus x nanus was created; this was a
hybrid that was earlier flowering as well as dwarfer than any other. These
smaller forms soon found great favour for their gracefulness and for their
greater resistance to wind and bad weather. In more recent times, both European
and American growers have concentrated on obtaining hybrids with smaller
flowers. In 1951 the Dutch firm Konyenberg en Mark introduced the butterfly or
mignon type, with small flowers .In the language of flowers, the gladiolus,
represents pain and tears, because "the flower bears the woeful cries of
Apollo after he had unfortunately caused the death of his beloved friend
Hyacinthus." In ancient times, young men wore garlands of gladioli at the
nuptials of a companion, as an expression of sorrow at losing the affection of
a dear friend.
Finally, a word
concerning the perfume of gladioli. Hybrids which have originated from such
species as G. tristis, G. carinatus, G. grandis, and G. caryophyllaceus have a
fragrance similar to carnations, plums, honey, or freesias, or a mixture of all
these. Some hybrids which can be especially recommended for their scent are:
Cultivation. In
the flower industry, gladioli have attained great economic importance, and the
past ten years have witnessed particularly rapid progress. In Germany, the most
important growing centres are found in the lower Rhine districts and in
Schleswig-Holstein, where between are
cultivated. In Holland as many as acres are devoted to commercial gladiolus
growing, and large crops are also raised in California; while France, Italy,
Spain, Morocco, Egypt, and Israel all produce gladiolus flowers for the market
on a minor scale. The cultivation of gladioli native to Europe and the
Mediterranean zones is not difficult from southwards. They thrive in any normal
fertile soil, and when planted permanently the only precaution to observe is to
allow the foliage to dry and die back naturally, removing the flower stem after
flowering has finished so as not to weaken the corm through the production of
unwanted seed. The species G. segetum, G. communis, and G. palustris are hardy
where the winter temperature does not fall below about for lengthy periods or where the ground does
not become deeply frozen. However, Gladiolus illyricus can be left permanently
in the ground where there is only light winter frost; while the South African
species should only be permanently planted in practically frost-free areas
(with the exception of Gladiolus tristis which will tolerate as much frost as
the European species). Gladiolus corms propagate rapidly and multiply
naturally, and if the corms are removed from the soil when dormant they can
easily be divided.
The cultivation of the modern hybrids is somewhat different.
The bulbs are normally planted from January to July, according to local
climatic conditions, which means, in effect, that the first planting can be
made in early spring when all risk of frost has passed. In many northern areas
this first planting may have to be delayed as late as the first weeks in May.
The commercially available varieties are classified as Early and Late, and the
Early types should be planted first. The correct planting depth is according to
the size of the corm; the distance between the bulbs . Neutral soil or slightly
alkaline soils are most suitable. The site should be well dug and
enriched with composted manure; the soil must be well drained and in a sunny
position. If the soil is too heavy, drainage can be improved by adding a
quantity of coarse sand, although an excessively porous and very dry soil is
harmful because gladioli like plenty of moisture.
A period days is required
from planting to flowering and if a quantity of bulbs are planted at intervals
days, from the date of the first planting until July, a succession of bloom can
be assured until October- November Immediately after planting, it is advisable
to mulch the soil surface lightly with a layer of peat or well-composted
leafsoil or manure to prevent the soil forming a hard crust and to conserve
moisture. Gladioli require the most attention during June-August. Some experts
advise the following fertilizing programme: immediately after planting, apply 6
tablespoon of one of the commercial brands of "complete" fertilizer
to every square yard and scratch it in lightly; three weeks later, when growth
has started, apply tablespoons of
ammonium sulphate per square yard; then, after another three weeks, apply
tablespoons of ammonium nitrate per
square yard, or 1teaspoon of urea. Other growers prefer to use only organic
fertilizers such as bone meal, dried blood, fish meal, etc.
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During this
period which in most districts is likely
to be hot and dry, gladioli require an abundance of water, not only at the
roots, but also for the leaves. If the leaves are sprayed regularly there is
much less risk of the plants being attacked by such pernicious pests as red
spider and thrips, insects to which gladioli are particularly susceptible when
grown in a hot, dry climate. While the weather remains dry, a moderate supply
of water should continue to be given until the foliage turns yellow, prior to
dying down (which marks the beginning of the corms' dormant period). If the
inflorescence has not been taken for use as cut bloom, it should be removed
when all the individual flowers have withered and before seed formation begins.
The foliage should not be cut back while it is still green, and when cutting
the flower spikes at least a few leaves should always be left on the plant.
Corms can be lifted from the soil in October—November, when
all growth has ceased. They should be dried outdoors in a shady position at a
temperature of about or, if more
convenient, in a well- ventilated location such as a garage. Once again, do not
cut off the leaves until they are completely dry. When dry the corms can be
cleaned, inspected for disease or damage, and dusted with dieldrin or
naphthalene (moth flakes) at the rate corms. The corms can then be placed in
shallow wooden trays or boxes and stored in a dry, dark, well-ventilated place
at a temperature. until the following spring.
Corms are offered for sale in various sizes, and the best
size is about in diameter. Gladioli are
propagated from seed only when new varieties are being raised. The best sowing
time is March, in a slightly heated greenhouse or in frames, pricking out the
seedlings into nursery beds, and then allowing them to grow on to form corms.
In autumn, the young corms should be lifted and dried in the same manner as
those of the flowering specimens. Another method of propagation is to use the
numerous little bulbils or bulblets that form around the older corms. These are
about the size of a pea, and if the largest are selected in autumn, when the
corms are removed from the soil, they can be kept during the winter with the
dormant corms. In spring these bulblets can be planted apart in nursery beds,
and grown on to form new corms.
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